Hotly contested on the Isonzo

Today people meet at Görz/Gorizia in Friuli-Venezia Giulia in northern Italy to drink good wine. From 1915 to 1917, the Battles of the Isonzo raged here, pitting Austrians and Germans against Italians. The Monte San Michele rises southeast of Görz from the plain and was initially a cornerstone of the Austrian front, then an Italian stronghold. Many positions from both owners of the mountain are still preserved, and a museum tells the story of the battles.

A memorial stone commemorates the Austrian k.u.k. Infantry Regiment No. 7 Graf Khevenhüller, which fought fiercely to conquer the summit (the 25th Jaeger Battalion of the Bundesheer continues the traditions of the former Carinthian unit). Even after almost 100 years, the trenches in the terrain are still clearly visible. The 275-meter-high Monte San Michele, the most important Austro-Hungarian defensive bastion on the Karst plateau on the Isonzo, was fiercely contested between Italians and Austria-Hungary from the first year of World War I due to its extremely important dominant position (the highest on the Karst plateau). HERE you can read a historical eyewitness account in the emotional language of the time.

To the west of the summit, we discover an entrance to a cave hidden in a bush. A plaque commemorates the former commanding general. The entrance appears blocked, but the cave behind it is very well preserved, as spacious as a hallway in an apartment building, with side tunnels that end in an observation post.

Hidden on the summit are the mouths of the Italian gun emplacements, built after the mountain was captured. Two openings face south, four face the mountains of the Isonzo front to the east. The fire from here is indirect, and the position can only be destroyed by a direct hit. In 1916, the mountain was captured by Italian infantry and defended against repeated furious Austrian attacks; for this reason, the summit of Monte San Michele was declared a "memorial area" in 1922.

The size of the Italian protective position can be seen when people are visible in the opening. A tunnel connects the gun emplacements. Although it is generally closed, one can easily enter through the gun openings.

If there was one thing not lacking, it was probably guns. There are several at the museum: howitzers, field guns, mortars. The museum tells the story of the struggle for the mountain. Today, this massive battle is hardly imaginable. From Monte San Michele, one has a splendid view over the mountains of the Isonzo valley to the Adriatic Sea near Monfalcone, corresponding to the former front line. In the museum's central hall, the details of the six battles on Monte San Michele are chronologically described, and the horrific episode of the surprise gas attack on June 26, 1916 (the first gas attack on the Italian front) is documented.

San Michele Monumental Area
Salita San Michele, 22
I – 34078 Sagrado (GO)
Tel.: +39 0481 92002 (Monte San Michele Museum); +39 0481 489024 (Redipuglia War Memorial - Directorate)

For information:
Paths of Peace (Sentieri di Pace)
Tourist office of Fogliano di Redipuglia
Via III Armata, 54
I- 34070 Fogliano di Redipuglia (GO)
Tel./Fax: +39 0481 489139
www.prolocofoglianoredipuglia.it
[email protected]

Opening hours
From April to August: from Tuesday to Saturday from 8:30 to 12:00 and from 13:30 to 16:00; Sunday from 8:30 to 12:00 and from 14:30 to 17:00.
From September to March: from Monday to Saturday from 8:30 to 12:00 and from 13:30 to 16:00
Open on: November 1st and 4th

Closure days
From April to August: Monday
From September to March: Sundays and holidays

From Carinthia across the Isonzo to the Adriatic, there are numerous museums and preserved positions to see. The Friuli-Venezia Giulia Tourist Board has an page on World War I online. There is also a very well-prepared travel map on the topic that can be ordered through the Tourist Board.